Sunday, February 27, 2011

Summarisung the TRESB Project

1. The problem that led to the TRESBP was that longshore drift moved sand (that was moving North) across the mouth of the Tweed River, this then put boats and ships moving into the river at risk as the offshore sand bar could damage them.
2. There was one unsuccessful solution and then they updated it and now the solution is considered one of the greatest  management strategies introduced. The first was the dredging and transport of the built-up sand Northwards towards the Gold Coast, this was expensive and environmentally unfriendly so there was a need to update and improve the strategy. The new strategy was then to build underground pipelines that pumped the built-up sand Northwards to the beaches that have been deprived of sand.
3. The result of the project was the beaches that were deprived of sand are no longer deprived of sand so yes, the project was a success.

Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypassing Project Questions

1.  Offshore sand bars were beginning to form and they were a hazard to the ships that were offloading or onloading their cargo at Tweed River. The easiest solution was to build a breakwater.
2. The natural transportation of sand up the coast towards the Gold Coast was cut off as the sand stopped moving and built up at the Breakwaters.
3. Longshore drift moved sand up the coast North towards the Gold Coast, meaning sand build up across the mouth of the river. This then beacme a hazard for ships trying to travel up the river as they could become stuck or damaged by the sand bars.
4. It was a short-term solution only as the process was expensive and innefficient.
5. Pipelines underground pump the sand from where it accumulates to the beaches that are lacking sand on the Gold Coast
6. This project has been regarded as one of the most successful coastal management strategies implemented in Australia because it is so efficient and subtle. I think the process is really clever and there is no better solution to such a situation. The dredging of the sand was both expensive and environmentally unfriendly whereas the pipeline is very efficient and inexpensive (in comparison to the dredging).
7.

8. The beach has become more square and the is more sand has built up around the recently built Breakwater.
9. 500m

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Maverick Waves from Around the World

A maverick wave is a monster, naturally occuring wave that is formed when a variety of factors come together. The term 'Maverick Wave' comes from a popular big-wave surfing point called Maverick's in  Northern California, USA, where the waves frequently crest at 25 feet (8m). There are various other places with such huge waves like Oahu, on the north coast of Hawaii and Todos Santos, Mexico
Todos Santos is a Mexican town surrounded by amazing beaches. One of these beaches is La Peligroso. La Peligroso is a major big-wave surfing site and is included in the World Big Wave Surfing Tour in January - February. As an example of the size of the waves in the best conditions in 1998, a 50 foot wave was nominated for 'Biggest Wave of the Year'.
There are a few factors into how such big waves reach Todos:
- The deep water canyon prefers a long swell period primarily those over 15 seconds that combine over the deep water canyon
- Strong winds, over 40 knots or greater for at least a day and a half, about 1000 miles away low over the North Pacific heading West
The waves have a potential of over 80 feet across the Channel so professionals say that they have not seen Todos at its best.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

The Science of Big Waves

Pre-viewing:
1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
        Ocean waves come from the 'wave factory' in the Pacific Ocean. When the high and low pressure systems meet, pressure is released from the air and pushed right into the water.
2.  What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
Where they break, when they break how they break. How best to exit the wave if you need to.

Questions for the Video

1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions. 
  The steep reef, headland, pressure systems, wind and fetch all come into play to form the Maverick waves.
2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?
They start thousands of miles away in a place called the 'wave factory' in the Pacific, the low pressure system meets the high pressure system and the energy is transferred from the air to the water. Windspeed (60 km/h), fetch (2000 miles) and duration (4days) .
They are measured in three waves; height, period and wave length (peak to peak or trough to trough). The longer wave length, the longer the period between waves.
3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?
Some of the biggest in the world. the "mount everest of surfing". The sharp ocean floor converts the potential energy into kinetic energy. The wave refraction causes the wave to bend and rise and it feeds the energy to form the perfect wave.
4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave 
The enrgy rotates the water, and that energy is used to propel the wave.
5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”
"The trick is to get in there and steal some fire before the full wrath of the wave is unleashed".
Sufers need to respect the full power of these waves as it could quickly turn into a fight for survival.


Homework:
Design a blog post on your blog of Maverick waves from different parts of the 
world. Be sure to describe the geography and the topography of the ocean floor in 
these areas and how this helps create these massive waves.

Longshore Drift

Saturday, February 12, 2011

7.1 Coastal Management Questions 1 - 6

1. Describe how the settlement pattern of Australia is related to issues in the Coastal Environment
Over 85% of Australia's population lives within 50km of the coast, this high demand results in the construction of homes and apartments all over the coast. These excessive constructions result in coastal areas being entirely occupied and overcrowded leading to issues like pollution and land clearing.

2.Why is the sustainable development of the coastline the aim of coastal management strategies?
The sustainable development of the coastline is the aim of the coastal management strategies because of the high demand for property and concentration of people living on the coastline resulting in areas of coastline being over inhabited and then burning out. The sustainable development of the coastline is essential in preserving the coast for future generations to enjoy.

3. What trend has been labelled 'sea change'?
The trend of people living in big cities moving to smaller coastal towns has been labelled 'sea change'.

4.  Describe one government response to 'sea change'.
One of the government's responses to 'sea change' was to place population limits and residential caps on the particular towns in order to avoid overpopulation and crowding.

5. Select four of the geographical issues facing the coastal environment presented in this unit. For each issue identify the human actions that cause the issue.
Issue one: Pollution: The high concentration of people living on Australia's coast has resulted in the pollution of the coastal environment. The people living on the coasts drop rubbish and waste which then gets washed down into the storm water drains, and then into to sea. Many of the organisms living in the water eat and get poisoned by this rubbish, therefore killing them off.
Issue Two: Overpopulation: The overpopulation of coastal areas due to the high demand of coastal properties has led to several issues concerning the coastal environment. one of these issues is the coastal towns being unable to sustain the large amounts of people leading to expansions in infrastructure which, in turn, affects the value and beauty of the coast.
Issue Three: Introduced Flora Species: Over the years, certain issues have led to the introduction of various coastal plant species. These species have done their original task but have spread into other areas. Some of these introduced species have spread to other areas of the coastline and are inflicting damage on the coast. The introduced species spread so quickly, they overgrow and surround native plant species, starving them of Sun, therefore killing them. Also, as these species are unattractive, they are considered quite an eyesore on an otherwise beautiful area.
6. What role do geographers play in developing management solutions to issues in coastal environments?
Geographers play a great role in the development of management strategies as they have the greater understanding of the coastal issues and processes and therefore how they are most effective.